Mystery Nixie? Desk Clock?

Thank you for the complements. I have to say, I did alot of poking around on the net for help. The data book was also a help, which I happen to have from school days. (1992 or so). The 1 to 12 counter was a huge hurtle. The 7490 resets to zero and I could not figure put how to trick it to jump to one with the whacky 0-9 and 1-2 count needed for the hours position. So I used flip flops because I found info on someone doing this. But it did not work, I did make changes and figured it out. The time setting is my own doing and using button debouncing techniques. I learned alot on this project last year.

The mechanical equipment in my videos was my passion for years but I now have physical limitations which is why I swayed to clocks. Just dealing with bad carpal tunnel right now so I am slowed with that. It is easier to repair old production clocks than build from scratch right now.

thank you for the interest.
Jim

To finish this story, I did find another example of the same clock that the original poster had started this thread with. It has an early MM5314N with a 1972 date code with gold pins and 1973 dated RCA tubes.

Numitrons are on the list for me to build a clock out of one day. I think they look very cool.
I notice in the picture the second numitrons are smaller than the minutes and hours, do you know what the make of each are?

The big ones are DR-2000 and the small ones are DR-2100 made by RCA. (Apollo / IEE brand tubes have a prefix of DA instead of DR and are the same). xx-2010 and xx-2110 tubes are basically the same except have a decimal point added in on the xx-2010's which you would not use. Some RCA 2000 / 2010 Numitron tubes have round tops which I like more but not sure if it was just the early runs or what.....

They made both flat tops and round... to me the flat tops are harder to find. I have a large collection of DA and DR-2000 and 2010's. The great thing about numitrons is they only require 5V DC to run which, if you're into arduino, is pretty handy. One thing I've found out is using LED current sink driver chips from TI is pretty much the way to go. Also if you try to multiplex them you will get ghosting and the best way, although tedious, is to put a diode on every cathode.