Nixie Clock Build GN-4, Proximity Sensor, GPS & Dekatron

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1 year 1 month ago #11802 by mclegg
Also, I know it doesn’t usually matter where the resistor goes, but thought I would check in this case?

I ran the LED and it looks to run in the incorrect polarity. I hooked it up so the - or flat side was plugged into pin one of SV1 and the other side into pin four of SV6 and it worked. The instructions say the - should be plugged into pin 4 of SV6 and this didn’t work.

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1 year 1 month ago #11803 by Ty_Eeberfest
You're half right. Neons go between SV-1 Pin 4 and SV-6 Pin 2 or Pin 3 (pins 2 & 3 function identically, see schematic). I got these pin numbers from the latest Classic Rev. 6 manual. I'm a little suspicious of the manual you have since you said it's suggesting those incorrect resistor values you mentioned earlier. If in doubt there is the link to the manual I am looking at:
www.nixieclock.biz/Downloads/ClassicNixi...nstructionManual.pdf

I recommend one 220K resistor for each neon initially. I say "initially" because of other peoples' difficulties getting the INS-1 neons to behave. If possible, bodge the resistors and neons in temporarily with clip leads (or something - get creative) at first so it's easier to change resistors if you need to. Once you are sure the neons are working as desired you can install everything cleanly.

Remember that any change you make to neons or their resistors requires a factory reset and re-run of the automatic HV calibration.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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1 year 1 month ago #11804 by Ty_Eeberfest
Regarding your second post that I didn't see at first...

For the neons it makes no difference which side the resistor goes on.

As for the LEDs I'm once again suspicious of the manual you have being old or for the wrong rev of board. SV1 Pin 1 is the positive to the LEDs, SV6 Pins 2 and/or 3 the negative.

Normally the long lead of the LED is positive and the flat side / shorter lead is negative. However! That standard is not always adhered to by the manufacturers! I have been hearing about LEDs bought from Chinese sellers that have the polarity opposite standard. Either the manufacturers ignore the standard or the LEDs are mistakes that they're unloading cheap online.

When in doubt test your LEDs before using them. If you don't have an official LED tester a 3 volt coin cell battery (e.g. CR2032 or similar) works fine. Simply touch the LED leads to both sides of the battery - no resistor required - and see if it lights and if not turn it around.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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1 year 1 month ago #11805 by Ty_Eeberfest
One more... and this is important!

The pin numbers you mention on your posts are not consistent with a Rev. 6 board but they do seem to match up with older boards. I thought you had a Rev. 6 board. We need to settle this so that I don't give you bad information!!

Take a look at the pictures. The Rev number is printed on the boards but is probably hidden now by the decoder/driver IC. If that's the case check the transistors: 2 transistors on Rev. 6 boards, 4 transistors on other revs.

Another thing that would identify a Rev. 6 kit is the RGB LEDs. Rev. 6 comes with flat rectangular surface mount WS2812 "Neopixel" type LEDs. Versions prior to Rev. 6 came with conventional looking round RGB LEDs with 4 leads.




Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.
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1 year 1 month ago #11806 by mclegg
Thanks.
They now run fine, with the anode side running to the HV pin and the cathode side running to pin 2 of SV6.

In regards to HV calibration. I am going to have to read into this as this is the first I have heard of it.

Cheers

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1 year 1 month ago #11807 by Ty_Eeberfest
Did you determine which board you actually have?

HV Cal is pretty much automatic. You've done it before perhaps without realizing it.

1) Do factory reset (power up while holding down the button)
2) Clock will go into test mode - counting 0 to 9 repeatedly on all digits.
3) When tubes display all 8s click the button momentarily
4) Tubes & RGB LEDs will go through a routine for a little while.
5) When the time appears it's all done and calibrated

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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