Nixie Clock Build GN-4, Proximity Sensor, GPS & Dekatron

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10 months 18 hours ago #10891 by mclegg
Sweet, so I chucked them in.
When it came to wiring the LEDs, I struggled to follow exactly where they were to go wire the pins to, so currently I have the Tick LEDs coming from Pins 2 & 3 (of four total) from SV6.
I have the negative, sort pin/flat side going to pin 2 & 3 of SV6 (I have two LEDs), and the other longer pins going to VCC, Pin one on SV1.
Is this correct? They seem to tick, but not sure if this is the correct way they should be wired?

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10 months 13 hours ago #10892 by Ty_Eeberfest
Yes you have the LEDs connected right.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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9 months 4 weeks ago #10894 by mclegg
So I have decided to build two clocks. A small one for a start and a larger one with everything.
The small one, which will be the first (the one I am doing now).
I only want it to have hours/minute, so four nixies.

Wanting to know how I would go about adding a magic eye to it, that would respond to noise level around the clock. Would this be difficult? What would be the best way of doing this? Keeping it 100% separate, like a completely different build, but in the same box? Or try run it all from the single board?

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9 months 4 weeks ago - 9 months 4 weeks ago #10895 by mclegg
Also, the Nixies I have came from an old board that has resistors on the anode of each nixie, these all run on the same bus, to a what I believe is a green Diode, (BY127).
I have attached the picture, the colours on the resistors Yellow, Purple, Orange, [Large Gap], Red, which i think is 47k?
Any ideas here? Are they needed?

Attachments:
Last edit: 9 months 4 weeks ago by Ian. Reason: Embed picture

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9 months 4 weeks ago #10896 by Ian
I guess that the diode is there for reverse polarity protection, although it's pretty obvious if you connect the tubes backwards and it doesn't seem to damage them.

In that case, you don't need the diode (but it won't hurt much if you leave it there).

I guess the board is direct drive (there are too many contacts for a multiplexed display, and multiplexing only really became a thing with microcontrollers) so you will need to substitute the resistors with lower values. I would go for a 1/4 of the value that is there, as a rule of thumb.

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9 months 4 weeks ago - 9 months 4 weeks ago #10897 by mclegg
Thanks Ian.
I was planning on taking the sockets right off the board, to mount in a different way, in this case, would I need the resistors/diode?

Also, any ideas on the Magic Eye - responding to sound - being integrated with the clock?
Last edit: 9 months 4 weeks ago by mclegg.

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