LM2596t-5.0

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7 months 2 weeks ago #9684 by jonboy
Replied by jonboy on topic LM2596t-5.0
So, I have complete bodged taking off the LM2596 off my nixie clock circuit board.

I suffer bad back and nerve damage and so shake quite a lot, and while I can get away with soldering most of the time, I find desoldering a lot harder.

And so having shaken around quite a lot and managing to solder all the holes for the 2596 together, and pull some of the pad off the board, it’s off, but things are not looking pretty!!
I don’t think I will be using this board again!!!
Unless ........
I can cut out the ic1 slot, and almost make the LM2596 a off the board component and wire it directly to the next set of pins.
So looking at the scymatics on the manuel I am guessing that ......
Pin 1 may go to the right hand side pin of C2
Pin 2 go to the bottom pin of Lc
Pin 3 not used/ ground
Pin 4 to SV1
Pin 5 top pin of L2

Now I am guessing a bit with the pin outs, and are not quite sure if they are right, hopefully I will be corrected, but would this work?
So, Could I remove all of the IC1 socket on the board and wire directly?
Sorry for the bother, but thanks for your help.

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7 months 2 weeks ago #9685 by Ty_Eeberfest
Replied by Ty_Eeberfest on topic LM2596t-5.0
Well, you could try that and it should work as long as you keep your wires as short as possible. Sounds like a lot of fiddly work though. Only you can decide which is more important: the price of a new board or the value of your time.

Here is how I would explain the pinout:

Pin 1 - goes to any point on the board that has raw VIN. Cathode (banded) end of D1 or positive end of C2 are good choices. C2 being a ceramic cap, the leads aren't marked + / - so look at the board to figure out which end is NOT grounded.

Pin 2 - goes to your choice of the cathode (banded) end of D3 or the end of L2 that connects to D3.

Pin 3 - goes to any ground point (this is not optional, pin 3 is definitely not "unused")

Pin 4 - goes to any VCC point. Positive end of C9 or the end of L2 that does NOT connect to D3 are good options.

Pin 5 - could just be jumped to Pin 3. It needs to be grounded.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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7 months 2 weeks ago #9686 by jonboy
Replied by jonboy on topic LM2596t-5.0
Maybe I will just scrap this board then.
As you mentioned, and as the data sheet for the 2596 states, these leads do need to be short, and mounting it offf board will length these leads if only a small bit.
I received my new bits today in the post, so will start rebuilding it over the weekend.
Thanks for the help and direction.

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7 months 2 weeks ago #9687 by Ian
Replied by Ian on topic LM2596t-5.0
If you want a new board, I can put one into the post for you. I'd just ask you to pay the postage. The board is for free. First possibility to send is Monday, though.

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7 months 2 weeks ago #9689 by jonboy
Replied by jonboy on topic LM2596t-5.0
Hi Ian,
That’s really kind of you, looking around at my spare parts I nearly have enough to build another one, and you can’t have too many nixie clocks!!
I will send you a email with my address, and am happy to pay any postage costs.
Jonathan

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