I personally wouldn't use Molex pins but that's just me. I'm building for myself and don't have to meet a price point so I spend the extra money for the good stuff - in this case machined pins made for this purpose. Those Molex pins fall into the "cheap stamped pins" I was referring to above. Sure they'll work but for how long before they start having issues?
EDIT: Look at the piece those Molex are designed to mate with. It's not just a "stiff wire" like a tube pin. It's slotted to make it "compressible", and that matters.
Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.
Wow, I had forgotten how expensive those mill-max pins are. Years ago we used to sell white ceramic IN-1 sockets, along with the tubes. I can't remember where we originally sourced them, but I think it was a Chinese dealer. We've also used the stamped metal pins in kits without any problems, but the mill-max pins are much nicer.
If there are any brick-and-mortar electronics part stores in your area, you should check there first before subjecting yourself to an online parts distributor. About 10 years ago, I decided to swap the incandescent panel lamps in one of my old minicomputers with LED replacements. The lamps were 28V T1-3/4 midget flange, and I needed 63 of them. The normal incandescent lamps could be had for pennies apiece, but all of the major online parts dealers I checked wanted about $8.00 each for the LEDs, which would've added up to around $500 to replace all of the lamps. I decided to check one of the local electronics stores instead, and found the same parts for $0.40 apiece.
Of course, I couldn't get away with that now, as the store in question now price checks everything online before they'll sell it to you. I guess it's a good thing that I cleaned out their stock of $0.25 Intel 4004s, long before they implemented their price checking procedure. We made some impressive 4004 profits on eBay that year.