No high voltage, no help from the seller...

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10 months 13 hours ago #11062 by Ty_Eeberfest
The pin 1 end of the chip should be toward the electrolytic capacitors or IOW away from the blue pot. Pin 1 itself would then be in the hole with the square pad.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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10 months 4 hours ago #11063 by Ian
Can you attach a "plan view" photo from on top and underneath? Then we don't have to guess anything. It looks about right though. This afternoon I'll attach a photo of one of my boards so you can compare.

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9 months 4 weeks ago #11064 by jonboy


Hope these are okay, doesn’t soldering look rubbish under magnification!

I had to bridge Q3 and D1 pin as i accidentally removed the pad on Q3 when removing it to see if it was faulty, I forgot the ‘cut the pins off and sacrifice the part’ phrase.

Maybe I should put a bridge across Q3 and Q4 as well? Could that be my problem?
Thanks guys for all your help.

Ty, I have managed to upload a blink file to the wemos, so I know I can connect it.
Thanks for the email on that.
Attachments:

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9 months 4 weeks ago #11065 by Ty_Eeberfest
Yeah the soldering looks a bit crusty but nothing jumps out at me as being actually bad. I hope you aren't using lead free solder because it's damn near impossible to do good hand soldering with that stuff!!

I don't see anything wrong, but I wish the pictures were higher resolution and also on the component side picture the area of main interest is in deep shadow which isn't helping.

The only advice I have for you right now is to use the schematic and your meter to make point-to-point continuity tests looking for a cut trace or non-conductive solder joint. Start by checking everything to do with Q3 and Q4. Probe the component leads themselves, not the pads on the back, whenever possible so as to test the solder joint as well as the trace. When in doubt, reflow solder joints. A few of your joints look dull instead of shiny but that may just be the lighting.

To answer a question from earlier in the thread that I forgot about, it shouldn't make a big difference if the pot is 5K or 10K for now. At least it shouldn't be fatal. Set the pot to mid range and don't worry about it until the thing is at least producing HV.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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9 months 4 weeks ago #11066 by Ty_Eeberfest
Hey... are you sure C6 and C7 are correct? C7 looks funny (extra fat) in your picture. Please double check values of both caps. C6 should be 360pF (361) and C7 should be 100nF (104). If the are swapped or something there will be problems.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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9 months 4 weeks ago #11067 by jonboy
This might be the problem!
C6 I have a 681 in and in c7 a 104.
The build manual says that C6 is a 680pf and the schematic says it’s a 360pf, so I will change that now.
So I hope Ian changes that in the build manual.
Will get back to you soon!!

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