Modular Kit Assembly Questions & Discussion

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11715 by roadrune

Ty_Eeberfest wrote: Actually, I just noticed that on the schematic the voltage called "VIN" is after D1. So if you read from the anode of D1 to ground you will see the voltage your power supply is putting out. If you read from the cathode of D1 to ground you will see power supply voltage minus a diode drop, which is what is being called "VIN".


So VIN and cathode side of D1 is the same point? That would definetly explain 0.0V between the two points, but if that is the case the manual is wrong, since one of the test points is to measure theese two.

From a noob perspective i would say the manual is wrong, or at the best, misleading at several points, but i suppose it would be easy to understand if i had some understanding of electronics.

Anyway i have soldered everything on the main board, except the front panel stuff, and two of the tubes (thats all i had time for today) and everything seems to work fine with the two tubes cycling through the test rutine.

Also the wifi module is broadcasting, but i have not connected to it yet.

Is the button necessary, or can i leave it out completely and just use wifi?

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11719 by Ty_Eeberfest
You need the button to exit the test routine. You also need it when you want to do a complete factory reset.

Don't exit the test routine until all 6 tubes, and the separator neons if you're using them, are installed. This is because as soon as you exit the test routine the firmware will perform the high voltage calibration. Calibration works best if all tubes and neons are hooked up.

Connecting to the WiFi will not do you much good until you have exited test mode and the calibration has run. You could configure the WiFi module to connect to your network now, but none of the other settings will work until the clock is running in "normal" mode.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11720 by Ty_Eeberfest


This piece of the schematic accurately shows the VIN label as being common to the cathode of D1. I'm not sure where you are seeing a contradiction. I guess maybe the VIN marking on SV1 Pin 2 could be confusing since it also says VIN but is before D1. So yeah, there is "VIN before diode" and "VIN after diode" which is perhaps unclear.

When in doubt look at the schematic rather than the text.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.
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6 months 2 weeks ago #11725 by roadrune
Heres what got me confused:



When i read it now, i understand it, but until just now, i thought it said to measure between D1 cathode and VIN, an not from ground to each of them...
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6 months 2 weeks ago #11726 by Ty_Eeberfest
Okay now I see your point. I suppose the text could be changed to make it clear that the readings are to be taken relative to ground.

Speaking in general terms, it is considered to be understood that voltages are measured relative to ground unless specified otherwise. To me it's obvious but I have been doing electronics for many years. I can see how it wouldn't be obvious to someone who is new at this.

Ian is the maintainer of the manuals. Let's see what he has to say.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11727 by roadrune

Ty_Eeberfest wrote: Okay now I see your point. I suppose the text could be changed to make it clear that the readings are to be taken relative to ground.

Speaking in general terms, it is considered to be understood that voltages are measured relative to ground unless specified otherwise. To me it's obvious but I have been doing electronics for many years. I can see how it wouldn't be obvious to someone who is new at this.

Ian is the maintainer of the manuals. Let's see what he has to say.


It should have been obvious to me as well, but it wasnt...

Another thing: will the clock be able to run double neons in parallell at each divider, making the dividers ":" instead of just "."?

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