Modular Kit Assembly Questions & Discussion

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6 months 2 weeks ago - 6 months 2 weeks ago #11706 by Ty_Eeberfest
Paste is certainly not necessary. I just found it to be a nice option. Whatever method you use, the important thing is to not heat up the LEDs any more than you have to. 63/37 tin/lead solder is preferred over lead free stuff.

Microwave "VIN" to Clock "VCC"
Microwave "OUT" to Clock "PIR"
Microwave "GND" to Clock "GND"

The microwave sensors are extremely (almost ridiculously) sensitive to movement at long distances. Metal will block the sensor, wood will not. I have not personally tried 10mm oak but I doubt it will affect the sensor at all, or at least very little. Mine can see movement through a closed hollow-core wooden door and sometimes even reacts to movement through common wood framed drywall sheeted walls.

EDIT to add: I think that 17mm tip would be good for sweat soldering copper water pipe but probably not so good for electronic work! ;)

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.
Last edit: 6 months 2 weeks ago by Ty_Eeberfest.

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11707 by roadrune
Thanks again Ty.

The 17mm tip is for speaker connectors with 4mm2 cable, they seems to always be cold-soldered...

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11708 by roadrune
First attempt:



5V ish (depending on led color, varies between 4.850-4.940V) between VCC and ground, VIN to D1 is still 0.0V.
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6 months 2 weeks ago #11709 by roadrune

Ty_Eeberfest wrote:
Microwave "VIN" to Clock "VCC"
Microwave "OUT" to Clock "PIR"
Microwave "GND" to Clock "GND"


Is theese three the only three ports to be used on the PIR?

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11711 by Ty_Eeberfest

roadrune wrote:

Ty_Eeberfest wrote:
Microwave "VIN" to Clock "VCC"
Microwave "OUT" to Clock "PIR"
Microwave "GND" to Clock "GND"


Is these three the only three ports to be used on the PIR?


Correct. The other 2 pins are not needed in this application. One of them is a general purpose 3.3V output from the detector module's onboard regulator and the other has something to do with a CdS photocell that is not present. These modules are probably made for use inside a motion light product for your yard or entry or something, and the CdS would serve to prevent the light from getting triggered during the day.

Here's everything you ever wanted to know about the microwave detector module:
github.com/jdesbonnet/RCWL-0516/

I see you got all 6 LEDs successfully installed. Well done.

I'm not sure what you are saying about D1, but if there was something wrong there nothing would be working. If you want to see some proof on a meter you should be measuring DC volts from D1 anode to ground (will read VIN) and from D1 cathode to ground (will read VIN minus a diode drop).

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11712 by Ty_Eeberfest
Actually, I just noticed that on the schematic the voltage called "VIN" is after D1. So if you read from the anode of D1 to ground you will see the voltage your power supply is putting out. If you read from the cathode of D1 to ground you will see power supply voltage minus a diode drop, which is what is being called "VIN".

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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