Modular Kit Assembly Questions & Discussion

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11700 by Ian
Yes, but they should not be forced. If necessary file out the hole a little bit with a square file. They should need little force to fit, and should not fall out.

IMPORTANT: Use a cool soldering iron to solder these. Around 290°C is good and use quick movements with little solder. There is a spare in the package, because these are easy to damage.

My advice is to do this when we get to that step, otherwise you will not be able to test the work. Do each one, one at a time and test them.

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11701 by roadrune
Then the HV part is finished with the gentle crackling sound in place.
170V measures aprix 180V.

I will have to wait with all SMD's as i am waiting for soldering tips for that, the 3mm chisel i have now wont do...

Can i proceed with anything else while i wait for DHL? All sockets on main pcb atleast?

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11702 by Ian
Excellent! Well done! If you have 180V, then that is the hard part already done!

You can go on and mount the rest of the components on the main board, apart from the WiFi parts and the tubes. These are easy and should mount with no problems.

If you are as impatient as I am, you can also have a go at mounting the "seconds" tube holder. The heat of the tip is more important than the size of it, but do what makes you feel most comfortable. 3mm is pretty large. ;)

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11703 by Ian
Just to say that there is a reason to say the "seconds" tube: They are in daisy chain, and everything starts at the seconds, then is chained left. Doing the 10s of hours first will not test anything.

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11704 by Ty_Eeberfest
Another option for soldering the LEDs to the tube boards is to use solder paste. I did this the last time I put together a modular and it worked well. I used "Kester 356 Sn63Pb37" paste which flows at a cool temperature of 450F / 240C.

Press the LED into position. Apply a small amount of flux to the LED pins. Squirt a tiny bit of paste (from a syringe) to form a bridge from pin to PCB pad. Touch the paste with the iron tip just long enough for it to turn silver and flow. Inspect to make sure it formed a bridge and not just 2 dots.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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6 months 2 weeks ago #11705 by roadrune
Thanks both of you.

The paste sounds nice, but i would have to order it, so my tips will arrive first anyway. I ordered a 1,6mm chisel, a 0.8mm pencil and a 17mm chisel, the last one might be a little big for SMDs :side:

I soldered all the sockets, and will continue with the rest of the components another day.

Regarding the microwave PIR, are the connectors in the same order as the clock, they have different names... Also will the direction of the PIR board have a huge impact of the range?

I plan to put it inside an oak case, which will be atleast 10mm thick.

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