Classic Rev. 6 built, some questions

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1 year 3 months ago - 1 year 3 months ago #9788 by stefan
Hi,
i recently finished one of Ian's Classic Rev. 6 Kits and designed a custom PCB to hold the tubes in the way i imagined it. Surprisingly, everything worked out fine and i got 5 PCBs from jlcpcb.com for really cheap. B)

Having everything finished despite the outer case, i came to some questions i'd like to ask.

Mosfet temperatures: The outer one reaches around 35°c, the inner one i slightly cooler. Is this ok or should i install a heatsink? The Back of the mosfet is conductive, isn't it? One bigger heatsink for both mosfets isn't a good idea then? Must separate sinks be electrically insulated from the mosfets?

Tube flickering: At very low ambient light, when digits are dimmed to the minimum, some tubes or digits are flickering and seem to be near to shuting off, altough this doesnt happen. With more light around this doesn't happen. I found the minimum dimming value in the menu. Is this the right way to go?

Menu: After having adjusted the minimum dimming, the clock kind of locked up. It didn't leave setting mode after abount 5 seconds doing nothing as stated in manual. The clock since then ignored my setting for 12/24h mode. I did a factory reset which worked, despite it won't leave settings mode... (and i earased the dimming...:whistle: )

PIR/rcwl-0516. I installed one rcwl-0516, but sensitivity is much too low. The clock shuts down even if i sit in front of it moving. I need to touch the rcwl-0516 slightly to wake up the clock again. I tested the rcwl-0516 alone with arduinjo, there it seemed to be hyper-sensitve, as stated on the internet. Is there some kind of filtering for the sensitivity by the clock itself? As it is now, the motion sensing is not usable. Or is the rcwl-0516 defective?

Since i won't screw up the menu again (see above) and fiddling around with one button, i'd like to write the desired values directly to the clocks code, after looking shortly on the code, i found it should be possible. But: how to get the code on the clock? Do i have to put the main IC to my arduino uno and programm it there? How about bootlaoder? Is there a tutorial?

Wanting to save the bucks, i didnt order wifi for my clock. Stupid me... Is it possible to retrofit it? :unsure:

Kind regards.
Stefan

Here are the pictures:
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Last edit: 1 year 3 months ago by Ty_Eeberfest. Reason: Finally got your images working!

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1 year 3 months ago #9789 by Ty_Eeberfest
Your images don't seem to want to display. Do you need to turn on some sort of "allow embedding" setting where your images are hosted??

Temperatures: 35C is not a problem but if it bothers you feel free to heatsink the regulator and/or the MOSFET. You are correct about conductive tabs. The tabs absolutely must NOT be electrically connected to each other! You could use 2 small heatsinks or you could use 1 big one with mica insulators on the components' tabs.

Flickering: you are correct. The default Minimum Dim setting will cause some tubes to flicker. Increase it to suit your tubes.

Menus: That is strange. To my knowledge there are no known issues with the menus locking up the processor, and plenty of people are using the menus. Perhaps Ian can shed some light on this.

PIR/rcwl-0516: I'm using an rcwl-0516 here myself and have not had that problem. Mine is hyper sensitive. There is no filtering in the code at all. I suggest checking your connections against the schematic one more time. Also try putting the positive probe of your meter on the "PIR" pin of the "Front Panel" connector (with front panel devices connected and power on). Negative meter probe to ground. If the rcwl-0516 is hooked up right and working you should see a High on that pin when the sensor sees no motion and see the pin get pulled Low when there is motion sensed.

Programming the Clock 1: Yes, it's perfectly legit to change values in the code to make your preferences permanent. That's what I do. Protip: do a search through the code to make sure the value you want to change really does what you think it does and it isn't getting overridden somewhere.

Programming the Clock 2: Easiest way IMO is to pull the processor out of the clock and put it in an Uno. The bootloader is already on the chip and if you do a normal upload using Arduino IDE the bootloader will not be disturbed. See page 33 of the manual for brief directions. The other option is to use an in-system programmer (ICSP) if you have one. Plug your ICSP into the ICSP 6-pin header on the clock board and in Arduino IDE do an Upload Using Programmer. This however will wipe out the bootloader. You can put back the bootloader if you want by doing a Burn Bootloader in the IDE after you upload the code. But if you have an Uno that's by far the easiest way to do it.

WiFi Module: it can easily be retrofit. I'm not sure how exactly you order one though. Contact Ian thru nixieclock.biz store site or wait for him to reply to this thread.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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1 year 3 months ago #9791 by Phil_Mod3
On the rcwl-0516:
It makes a great difference if you have any objects (esp. conductive) around or even in front of the sensor. I'd try to reposition it, if you haven't tried already.
There is one preset in the clock menu (Use PIR pull-up) which is related to the sensor. (However, I think it didn't make any difference for my sensor.)

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1 year 3 months ago #9794 by Ty_Eeberfest
Good point about the pull-up Phil. I can say with absolute certainty that on my clock I did nothing to the pull-up settings. It's running the default setting which is pull-up enabled and it has been working fine for many months.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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1 year 3 months ago #9801 by stefan
Hi, thanks for the replys. Ich measured between gnd and Sensor Out infinite resistance when the clock is shut off by the sensor, when the clock is on after having touched the Sensor there is a resistance of 17,75M Ohm.
The behaviour is for sure wrong. :-(
In the near Background auf the Sensor are die Anode Connections routed. Can they interfere?
I will try repositioning the Sensor.

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1 year 3 months ago #9802 by Ty_Eeberfest
What I meant was that you should measure DC volts, not resistance. Expected readings are 5V when the sensor is NOT detecting motion, and 0V when it is detecting motion. Resistance readings are not particularly useful.

Look into it later when the dust is clearing off the crater.

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