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Displays '0' & '1' at the same time
2 years 2 months ago #9177
by SamIam
Displays '0' & '1' at the same time was created by SamIam
During installation of the tubes everything was going fine and testing well. After the 4th or 5th tube, during the testing sequence all the tubes would display both '0' & '1' at the same time. The would stay illuminated for the duration of both numbers and sequence through the rest of the digits in a normal fashion. I thought maybe the board needed a reset, so I continued with the build.
Now I have completed the build, I believe I have the clock set correctly, although I'm still trying to figure out some of the setting. However when ever a tube needs to display either the '0' or the '1' it will display both digits.
I have checked my solder connections, the board for any possible shorts, but have not been able to find any yet.
Any advice on what to do next to fix this?
The clock is suppose to be showing 13:54:23 but as you can see both the '0' & '1' are displayed on the first hour digit.
Now I have completed the build, I believe I have the clock set correctly, although I'm still trying to figure out some of the setting. However when ever a tube needs to display either the '0' or the '1' it will display both digits.
I have checked my solder connections, the board for any possible shorts, but have not been able to find any yet.
Any advice on what to do next to fix this?
The clock is suppose to be showing 13:54:23 but as you can see both the '0' & '1' are displayed on the first hour digit.
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2 years 2 months ago #9187
by Ian
Replied by Ian on topic Displays '0' & '1' at the same time
My money is on a defective tube - it's not that common, but it's not that rare either, especially if the tubes were used ones. This is why the manual recommends strongly to test after installing each single tube.
There is a lower risk way of checking if the visual inspection and the rework on the K155 don't do it: You can snip to 0 and 1 wires of the suspect tubes with a pair of electrical snips, just enough to interrupt the current.
This can be invisibly repaired with a soldering iron on the tubes which don't have a problem.
Again here, do it one at a time, so you know where the problem is. Once you know the tube at fault, there is no option other than to replace it.
There is a lower risk way of checking if the visual inspection and the rework on the K155 don't do it: You can snip to 0 and 1 wires of the suspect tubes with a pair of electrical snips, just enough to interrupt the current.
This can be invisibly repaired with a soldering iron on the tubes which don't have a problem.
Again here, do it one at a time, so you know where the problem is. Once you know the tube at fault, there is no option other than to replace it.
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