HV circuit not runnung correctly

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3 years 2 months ago #7555 by nixie-N00b
i got a problem: i was switching C1 (2.2uF 400V) and C4 (220uF Capacitor 16 V)at the board, in the test for the the C1 placed capacitor (the 220 uF) was popping :/

unfortunately the MEGA8 was connected in the socket … but I don’t know if it was damaged by my fault.
i replaced the killed capacitor with a new one (same values) and switched C1 and C4 correctly.

the HV test was passed, the Voltage oszillated between 170 and 240 V, a faint crackling sound was to hear, 5V LED lights correctly.

so i go on to complete the RTC-circuit / "Thick LED"-Circuit. and the mess begins:
- a faint crackling sound was hearing in the first 10 secounds, then silence (nothing burns or smoke / get hot)
- the RTC shows a LED (seems to be ok??)
- the thick LED does nothing (test against VCC works)
- check the HV via the "170 V"-Checkpoint: going up to 135 V and did not get higher

checkung the MPSA42, but nothing happens there (could i check something there?)

which problem could it be? did i killed the controller with the capacitor-switch?
may the MPSA42 get a problem?

thanks in advanded

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3 years 2 months ago #7561 by Ian
Sorry, I didn't see this until now.

If you are getting more than VIN at the HV test point, then the controller is working. The boost circuit cannot produce a higher voltage unless the controller is driving the MOSFET gate.

Can I ask which board you are using? If it is a Modular or All-In-One, you will not get any tick-LED until you set jumper P1.

If you perform a factory reset (connect the button and hold it while you power on), it should perform the HV calibration again.

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3 years 2 months ago #7562 by nixie-N00b
Hi Ian,

i got the classic Nixie Clock w. Arduino - kit
the Board revision is Rev4b so i can see it in the place where IC3 will be placed.
unfortunately i try to rearrange the MPSA42 (numbered Q6) and screw up the fitting solder joint :/ now i was soldering gently it in again (the solder strap was broke out by re-soldering part) and hope i got it to contact.
i will try the factory reset asap and tell you the results.

thx for helping a electronic N00b ;)

regards, Sven

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3 years 2 months ago #7566 by nixie-N00b
Hello again,

i tried the factory-reset as written in the manual:
the HV comes up. sometimes. means: in 3 of 5 cases the HV starts its work and will finish at 170 V +- in the other cases it will not reach the 170 V and hungs around 125 / 135 V ... a change of the power adapter from 12 to 9 V (600 mA) didn't solve this prob.
the thick LED is totally not impressed of them: it doesn't light / flicker / fade or something, also it do not flash at factory reset. the LED was tested, it works correctly (with a 3032 battery).
Btw: the MSPA24 get contact, all legs are connected to the board. this should be not the Problem (all ways checked from transistor-leg to the endpoint of the Thick LED / SW7 shows correct Resistor-Values, checking left leg at ground-connection resistance against GND-checkpoint shows "0", so it must be also connected correctly).

now i'm clueless as before about this.
which issue could it be now?

Regards, Sven

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3 years 2 months ago #7567 by Ian
Hi Sven

do you have an oscilliscope? If you do, we can check some things more easily.

If you do a factory reset, it will take up to 40 seconds to finish the start up calibration. The MPSA42 works in an open-collector mode, so you need to wire up the LED from VCC to the LED input pin.

If you are getting 135V, that is a good sign. Unitl you have tubes installed, the HV generator does not have any load, and the results of voltage readings can be a bit weird.

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3 years 2 months ago #7568 by nixie-N00b
Hi Ian,

no, i don't have an oscilloscope, just a multimeter for V, A and Ohm-messures. the Thick LED is connected from GND - PIN 1 of SV2 with negative Side to SV6 PIN 4 with positive side as written in the manual. connecting with VCC (SV2 PIN4) works.

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