I've got the modular board here... Bought 1 full kit and 1 partial kit.
Side note... I may just opt to buy remaining components from you folks for the 2nd partial kit.
Anywho... Finished the build.
Couple of comments: the silkscreen is not the best. I feel labeling component values on board would be useful, though I see how it does force one to read the docs.
When plugging in my supply(12v 1a)
1) I see no more than 40v DC on my HV
2) C1 heats up
3) L1 heats up
4) Q1 heats up
5) VCC to ground is 5.01V
6) VIN to D1 has no drop
7) red LED lights up
Could a bad cap be causing all of this?
10 months 1 day ago - 10 months 1 day ago#7975by BS_Jim
A couple things come to mind. Is the "-" stripe on C1 facing the tubes? Is C1 a 2.2uF/400v capacitor? Is the banded end of D2 also facing the tubes? In an earlier version of the kit there were two different types of diodes and putting the 1N4007 in D2 would not work. I think all Ian's recent boards just use UF4007's for both diodes.
If all polarities are correct and D2 is the correct type, I would start by removing the opto-couplers from their sockets and retesting the HV. It should now read around 360v because of no load.
I just discovered the "modular" board was slightly different from the "All-in-one" and "classic" boards that I've built. I was wondering why you had 3 diodes.
So D2 should have the banded end toward the edge of the board instead of forward.
If you have an old neon tester for electrical outlets (or an NE2 neon lamp and a >100k resistor), you should try lighting it from the 170v test point. This will let you know if you have HV under load and eliminate any weird readings some DMM's show with switching noise generated by the boost circuit.
I believe I discovered the issue...
I made an oversight on the caps and assumed they were all 220uf...(I thought the 2.2 Jim wrote was a typo).
A 35v cap does not like being fed 170+... Ill fix this and hope I did not cause any more harm
So C1 has a 220/35v, it should be 2.2/400v
C3 has a 2.2/400v, it should be 220/35v